- Duration
- 60 days
- Difficulty
- Extreme
- Group size
- Any size
- Region
- Everest Region
Overview
Attempt two 8,000 m summits in one spring season: Mount Everest (8,848.86 m) and Lhotse (8,516 m), on a 60-day expedition from Kathmandu with one climbing Sherpa for each member. For experienced climbers who have already summited an 8,000 m peak.
This 60-day expedition aims for two 8,000 m summits in a single spring season: Mount Everest (8,848.86 m), the highest mountain on Earth, and its neighbor Lhotse (8,516 m), the fourth highest. The two peaks share the same route from Base Camp through the Khumbu Icefall, up the Western Cwm and onto the Lhotse Face, which is what makes it possible to attempt both on one trip.
The expedition begins with a classic approach through the Khumbu. After two days of preparation in Kathmandu, you fly to Lukla and walk through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche and Dingboche, with acclimatization days along the way, to reach Everest Base Camp at 5,364 m on Day 10.
The heart of the trip is the 43-day climbing period. You make acclimatization rotations up the mountain, returning to Base Camp to rest between them, until your body is ready and a good weather window opens. There are no fixed summit dates: the mountain and the forecast decide.
We plan to climb Everest first, by the South Col route. When you get back to the South Col from the summit, your expedition leader assesses each climber individually. If you are strong enough and conditions allow, you cross to Lhotse high camp, either the same day after a few hours’ rest or the following day, then climb the narrow Lhotse Couloir to the top. The aim is to climb both without returning to Base Camp.
Each member climbs with their own climbing Sherpa, and oxygen, a mask and a regulator are provided for the upper mountain. Base Camp is your home for most of the expedition, with meals cooked by our crew and porters carrying loads up and back.
This is one of the hardest goals in high-altitude climbing, and it is not for beginners. We expect you to have climbed several 6,000 m and 7,000 m peaks and at least one 8,000 m peak, and to move confidently on rock, glacier and snow. Tell us honestly about your experience and current fitness, and we’ll advise you on training and any preparation climbs you need first.
Climbing at this altitude carries a real risk of serious injury or death, and a second summit means more time above 8,000 m, where the body can’t recover. Neither summit is guaranteed. Being told to go down after Everest, or turning back on either peak, is part of a safe expedition and not a failure.
Highlights
- Attempt two 8,000 m summits in one season: Everest and Lhotse
- Climb Mount Everest (8,848.86 m) by the classic South Col route
- Climb the narrow Lhotse Couloir to the summit of Lhotse (8,516 m)
- Move through the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm and the Lhotse Face
- One climbing Sherpa for each member, with oxygen for the upper mountain
- The approach through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche and Dingboche to Everest Base Camp
Itinerary
Our team meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and takes you to your hotel. Rest after your flight.
Meet the team for a welcome briefing, go through a full check of your gear and complete the official expedition formalities. There’s still time to buy or replace anything you’re missing.
Take the short mountain flight to Lukla, meet your crew and walk mostly downhill beside the Dudh Koshi River to Phakding.
Follow the river north across high suspension bridges and enter Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo. The day ends with a long, steady climb to Namche, the trading town of the Khumbu.
Rest, or hike to a viewpoint above town for your first big view of Everest, then come back down to sleep at the same altitude.
A high trail with views of Ama Dablam drops to the river, then climbs through forest to Tengboche and its monastery, a good place to pause before the short walk down to Deboche.
Cross the Imja Khola and pass through Pangboche as the trees give way to open alpine country, then continue up to the stone-walled fields of Dingboche.
Take a short hike up the hill above the village to help your body adapt, then come back down to rest.
Climb past Dughla and the memorials to climbers lost on Everest, a sobering stop on the way, then follow the Khumbu valley to Lobuche.
Walk along the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier through Gorak Shep to Base Camp, your home for most of the next six weeks. Settle in and meet the rest of the crew.
From here the schedule follows the mountain, not the calendar. The period usually starts with a puja ceremony at Base Camp and practice on ladders and fixed lines. You then make acclimatization rotations through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 (about 6,100 m) and Camp 2 (about 6,400 m), and up the Lhotse Face towards Camp 3 (about 7,200 m), returning to Base Camp to rest between each one. When a good weather window opens, usually in mid to late May, you climb through the high camps to the South Col (Camp 4, about 7,950 m) and along the South-East Ridge to the summit of Everest at 8,848.86 m. Back at the South Col, your expedition leader assesses each climber individually. If you are strong enough and conditions allow, you cross to Lhotse high camp (about 7,800 m), either the same day after a few hours’ rest or the following day, then climb the Lhotse Couloir to the summit at 8,516 m before descending to Base Camp. If not, you descend from the South Col. Your expedition leader decides the timing, and will turn you back on either peak if the weather, conditions or your health make it unsafe to continue.
Pack up, help clear the camp and say goodbye to life on the glacier.
Head back down the Khumbu valley, with the air getting thicker as you lose height, to a guesthouse bed at Pheriche.
A long day down through Pangboche and Tengboche to the bakeries and busy streets of Namche.
Your last day on foot follows the Dudh Koshi back down the valley, with a final climb up to Lukla. It’s a good evening to celebrate with your crew.
Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to your hotel. Flights depend on the weather, so this is the day most likely to change.
A day to rest, explore the city and join the Nepali team for a farewell dinner.
We take you to Tribhuvan International Airport in time for your flight home.
What the price covers
Included
- Airport and hotel transfers in Kathmandu
- Four nights in a Kathmandu hotel with breakfast
- Welcome dinner and farewell dinner in Kathmandu
- Round-trip flights between Kathmandu and Lukla
- Transport between Kathmandu and Base Camp for members and staff
- Everest and Lhotse expedition permits, Khumbu Icefall route fee, Sagarmatha National Park permit and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit
- Guesthouse accommodation on the trek and tents at Base Camp and the high camps
- Three meals a day on the trek and at Base Camp
- Porters to and from Base Camp
- One climbing Sherpa per member
- Oxygen cylinders, mask and regulator for each member and climbing Sherpa, with reserve oxygen at Base Camp
- A walkie-talkie for each member, and a satellite phone on the expedition
- Wages, equipment, food, clothing and medical and rescue insurance for all Nepali staff
Not included
- International airfare
- Nepal visa fee (please bring the exact amount in USD cash)
- Extra nights in Kathmandu for an early arrival, late departure or early return
- Travel, high-altitude, accident, medical and evacuation insurance (compulsory)
- Emergency rescue and evacuation costs, if needed
- Climbing Sherpa summit bonus for each mountain
- Tips for Base Camp staff and porters
- All personal climbing equipment and clothing
- Satellite phone calls (charged by duration)
- Personal expenses
Everest and Lhotse Expedition Packing List
This is an outline of what an 8,000 m climb needs. We’ll send a full kit list when you book.
- Insulated 8,000 m climbing boots
- Steel crampons fitted to your boots
- Climbing harness
- Ice axe with leash
- Ascender (jumar)
- Belay device
- Locking and non-locking carabiners
- Safety slings (cow’s tails)
- Climbing helmet
- Trekking poles
- Down climbing suit rated for 8,000 m
- Heavy down jacket for Base Camp
- Thermal base layers (top and bottom)
- Fleece or soft-shell mid layers
- Waterproof, windproof jacket and trousers
- Trekking shirts and trousers for the approach
- Warm hat, balaclava, sun hat and buff
- Liner gloves, insulated gloves and down mitts
- Glacier glasses and ski goggles
- Trekking boots for the approach
- Insulated camp boots for Base Camp
- Trekking socks and warm wool socks
- High-altitude expedition socks
- Two large duffle bags
- Climbing backpack (around 50–60 L)
- Daypack for the approach
- Down sleeping bag rated to around -40°C
- Second sleeping bag for Base Camp
- Inflatable and closed-cell foam sleeping mats
- Dry bags for documents and electronics
- High-SPF sunscreen and lip balm
- Personal first aid kit and any prescription medicines
- Water purification tablets or a filter
- Toiletries and a quick-dry towel
- Hand sanitizer and wet wipes
- Pee bottle
- Earplugs
- Headlamp with spare batteries (essential on the summit pushes)
- Power banks or a solar charger
- Travel adapter (Nepal types C, D, M)
- Phone or camera
- Passport and a copy of it
- Passport-sized photos
- Insurance policy details, including rescue cover
- A record of your earlier climbs
- Cash for tips, summit bonuses and personal expenses
- Insulated water bottles with covers
- Your favorite high-energy snacks for the climb
Frequently asked questions
We expect you to have climbed several 6,000 m and 7,000 m peaks and at least one 8,000 m peak, and to move safely on rock, glacier and snow. When you enquire, tell us honestly about your experience and fitness. We’ll review it and, if there are gaps, suggest training and preparation climbs to do first.
Climbing at this altitude carries a real risk of serious injury or death. Avalanches, falls, altitude illness, severe cold and sudden storms can affect even strong, well-supported climbers, and a second summit means more time above 8,000 m. Good preparation, a strong team and the discipline to turn back all reduce the risk, but nothing removes it. Please think about this carefully before you commit.
We plan to climb Everest first, by the South Col route, then continue to Lhotse from the South Col without returning to Base Camp. Conditions on the mountain can change this plan, and your expedition leader will confirm it during the expedition.
Your expedition leader assesses each climber individually back at the South Col. You only continue to Lhotse if you are strong enough and conditions allow. If not, you descend, and your expedition ends with Everest. It is a decision made for your safety, and it is final.
It runs in spring. Climbers usually arrive in Kathmandu around early April and aim for the summits in mid to late May, when a weather window tends to open before the monsoon. The exact timing depends on the forecast and on how the season develops.
Your body needs weeks to adapt to the altitude. The first 10 days are the walk to Base Camp, then the 43-day climbing period leaves time for rotations up the mountain, rest at Base Camp, waiting for the right weather and attempting both summits. Rushing is one of the biggest risks at this altitude.
Yes. The expedition includes one climbing Sherpa for each member. The Sherpa summit bonus is not included in the price and applies to each mountain, so please allow for it in your budget. We’ll confirm the amounts when you book.
Yes. Oxygen cylinders, a mask and a regulator are included for each member and climbing Sherpa, and reserve oxygen is kept at Base Camp for emergencies.
You need Everest and Lhotse expedition permits, the Khumbu Icefall route fee, a Sagarmatha National Park permit and a Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit. We arrange them for you, and they are included in the trip.
Travel insurance is compulsory. Your policy must cover climbing to 8,849 m, including helicopter and medical rescue and repatriation. Many standard policies stop far below that, and a rescue can be very expensive, so check the altitude limit before you buy and bring the details with you.
Yes. Lukla flights depend on mountain weather and are often delayed or cancelled. We recommend keeping spare days before your international flight home, especially as the end of the climbing season can be hard to predict.
You stay in a hotel in Kathmandu, in guesthouses on the walk in and out, and in tents at Base Camp and the high camps. You get three meals a day on the trek and at Base Camp, with our crew cooking at camp. Tell us in advance if you are vegetarian or have other dietary needs.
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